Round the lake: 0.25 miles
Time taken: 3 hours 50 minutes (including ascent of Red Pike), Estimated 2 hours if returning from Bleaberry Tarn.
Elevation: Approximately 1,300 feet from the starting point.
I first saw Bleaberry Tarn from the summit of Red Pike in 1972 during a walk from Black Sail to Croasdale with a schoolfriend and a terrier. Equipped with only a pair of stout boots, a mars bar and a can of fizzy drink each, we completed the walk in a more or less exhausted condition in about six hours. Having had Sunday lunch before leaving home, I just made it to school the next day while my companion, who later admitted to having eaten only a light breakfast, didn't. Nevertheless, we both survived to adulthood, remain good friends, and I at least, remain a keen fell-walker.
Today's walk was shorter and unlikely to be traumatic, as it began with the sole aim of reaching Bleaberry Tarn, walking around it, and returning to the car. Forty years of experience and a degree of common sense also meant I had a rather better idea of what I was about to attempt!
Bleaberry Tarn as pictured by a 14 year old with a kodak instamatic in 1972!
As it was Easter Sunday I decided to start early and beat the crowds and so I parked in Buttermere village a little after 8am and set off past the Fish Inn and along the road towards the Lake. Having reached the Lake and following the path through a small gate onto the track which leads around it, you need to make an immediate right turn up what looks almost like a staircase through the trees.
I have mixed views about man made paths in the Lake District; this one seems very artificial with its well positioned stones but, as I was to find out later, the route is so popular that a path would otherwise develop of its own accord. Such a path no doubt would be more intrusive and, given the rocky terrain, even more likely to result in twisted ankles.
The climbing starts almost immediately and is fairly relentless until long after the path emerges for the trees and begins to zig zag up the fell side. The tarn lies in a depression about two thirds of the way up onto the High Stile, Red Pike range which separates the Buttermere and Ennerdale Valleys and there isn't an easy way up - you just have to get your head down and walk. Very good for the calf muscles!
The compensation, as is often the case, comes in the form of spectacular views down in to the valley below and, later, along to Crummock Water and beyond.
Buttermere and Fleetwith Pike. Early morning clouds soon gave way to clear skies - unbelievable weather for a bank holiday!
I did meet one or two people on the way up, but my early start meant that most of the time I was alone and could walk at my own pace, stopping as appropriate to soak up those views.
Eventually, the path took a left turn over the crest of a hill and began to level out. On my right was the stream which flows out of Bleaberry Tarn and which I had crossed earlier just a few yards from where it enters the Lake. With Red Pike now clearly identifiable ahead of me to the right, and some impressive crags straight ahead and to my left, I could guess where Bleaberry Tarn was but couldn't see it. In fact it doesn't become visible at all until you are within a few yards and then it appears; on this Easter morning almost completely still and, with only two other people within sight, perfectly silent.
After gazing upon it for a few minutes I set off on the short trip around the tarn - electing to do an anti clockwise loop!
The view from half way round - it reminded me of one of those infinity pools you see advertised in holiday resorts! From this angle, you could be forgiven for thinking the Buttermere valley didn't lie between you and the fells around Newlands Pass in the background.
The circuit of Bleaberry Tarn took twelve minutes, including a stop to take pictures,(with my 'phone as I'd brought my camera but left the battery plugged in to its charger at home!) but by the time I returned to the point where the beck leaves it, there were a couple of other walkers with two Alsation dogs and two or three other groups beginning the next section up to the aptly named Red Pike.
The aim of my walk achieved, I sat down to enjoy a drink and a snack and pondered over whether to continue up to the top. As I'd completed two thirds of the climb, and remembering the views from the top, there was little doubt and so I began the climb.
For the next hour or so the climbing was relentless and, not having been out hiking for a little while I stopped often. In fact I stopped far too often. About half way, there is a grassy bit which allows you to veer off to the right and to enjoy a great view out over Crummock Water and I took this detour and sat down to gaze on the sunny vista below.
Crummock Water with Melbreak on the left and Grasmoor on the right.
Returning to my task, I continued up the last section which, by now, was getting rather busy. Overtaken by a skeleton of a woman in shorts I felt rather unfit and slow, half expecting to suffer the embarrassment of some young hiker offering me assistance as I struggled to make progress up the badly eroded path. The final section to the summit of Red Pike is almost a scramble and not for the feeble!
I made it however and joined quite a crowd milling around the pile of stones which offered only a little shelter from a biting wind. A short walk beyond the stones gives a view of Ennerdale Water, equal to that of Crummock a little earlier, making a total of five major lakes visible from within a few yards the same spot. (Ennerdale Water, Loweswater, Crummock Water, Buttermere and, in the far distance, Derwentwater).
If you've not been here before, its a good idea to add a walk southeast to the next summit, High Stile. While the views aren't any better, they are different and the rocky landscape quite striking. On the opposite side of the Ennerdale valley, Pillar and Great Gable are not far away and alternative, dramatic, views down into Buttermere are also there for the taking.
The whole area, being over 2,500 feet above sea level, is quiet wonderful and allows you to see pretty much all of the central fells.
Ennerdale Water from the summit of Red Pike
By the time I began the descent back to Beaberry Tarn there was a steady stream of walkers heading in my direction and a crowd seemed to have assembled at the tarn itself.
Bleaberry Tarn from the Red Pike Path
Some walks are diminished if you are obliged to return by the same route but his isn't one of them. The landscape in all directions is so good that the opportunity to view it from a different perspective, and even with the sun higher or lower in the sky, is a bonus to be appreciated.
By the time I was on the last section, back on that man made "staircase", I was overtaken by, and then overtook, the cyclists I'd met on the top. I saw at least one go over the handlebars (well, what I actually saw were his feet in the air where his head should have been) and I had to admire their spirit of adventure!
An intrepid cyclist making his way through the steady stream of walkers by now heading up Red Pike
Buttermere
Eventually, I arrived back at my car about four hours after leaving it. A fine walk had been enjoyed in bright spring sunshine and Easter sunday lunch beckoned!
