Round the lake: 3.7 miles
Time taken: 1 hours 25 minutes
One of the smaller lakes (as opposed to tarns) Loweswater is easy to get to and very easy to walk around - not a challenge at all, more of a stroll than a hike.
Driving from Workington or the A5086, the first available parking place is to be found just after the Grange Country House Hotel, by a telephone kiosk, with the lake and Melbreak already in view. As usual, the walk can be done either clockwise or anti clockwise with little to choose between the two. I elected to go clockwise simply to get the stretch where you have to endure traffic out of the way first.
My route took me along the road for about half a mile until the lake is but a few feet away on the right hand side. At this point it is normally possible to leave the road and follow a gravel path at the water's edge; today however, recent heavy rain had filled the lake to the point where much of the path was submerged, obliging me to rejoin the road.
Looking up the lake towards Melbreak
The strip of land between the road and the lake is full of mature trees and shrubs and consequently the path is in the shade. Loweswater itself, being bordered to the south-west by steep fell, is also in the shade for much of the day and, in winter, seems rarely to see the sun. Today was a bit overcast but, although I was out of direct sunlight, the water and the forest at the other side of the lake were subject to intermittent shafts of light coming down through gaps in the otherwise thick cloud cover. A better photographer could have made more of it than I!
Shafts of light illuminated the trees of Holme Wood across the lake
Less than half an hour got me to a point where the path came to an end and, whatever the height of the lake, I'd have had to rejoin the road as it climbs past a seventeenth century house, not long ago subject to an inundation of gravel after a heavy rain and consequent flood, and up a sharp incline in the general direction of The Kirkstile Inn; a place for excellent beer (Loweswater Gold is my favourite) and good, if a little expensive, food. It's almost forty years since I first stood at its bar with a pound in my hand to order three pints and, although the prices have soared, the pub itself has changed remarkably little since then.
Unless you are in need of refreshment however, there's no need to go as far as Kirkstile, as a turning to the right takes you onto a narrow road which doubles back towards the lake. About a quarter of mile down that road brings you to a small car park - which could be an alternative starting point for the walk - and a cattle grid leading to an unpaved track across open fields. This afternoon, the cattle grid had a two tone vintage Rolls Royce parked on it, occupied only by a driver wearing a peaked cap - presumably waiting for a wedding party who had gone up to the lake for a photo session.
A funny place to park, I thought.
By now, the occasional shafts of sunshine had become the norm and it was pleasantly bright and warm as I set out through the fields leading back to the lake. By the time I arrived the wedding party had got into a more modern car and were heading back to their Roller - I had expected to see a bride in traditional wedding get-up and high heels struggling to avoid the potholes!
From this end of the lake, the views are more open and, with the leaves just beginning to turn colour, splendid scenery is to be had in all directions. The wide gravel road veers off to the left towards Waterend Farm but my route remained on a firm path entering Holme Wood through a wooden gate. Due to the small car park only a quarter mile or so back, this is a very popular place for a Saturday afternoon walk and you are unlikely to be alone, but it is rarely crowded and an excellent choice for a short outing.
More open views at the foot of the lake just before entering Holme Wood
Once through the gate the walk takes on a different feel again as shade replaces sunshine and the lake can be seen only through trees and shrubs for much of the time. A five minute walk, however, brings you to a spot where the shoreline takes a turn to the right and a shingle beach behind which stands a small stone bothy. Equipped for overnight stays, there are often signs of habitation and a couple of rope swings overhang the water.
The main path cuts through the wood in a relatively straight line but, by hanging to the right, past the bothy,a smaller but equally good path can be followed which clings to the shoreline. Two or three weeks from now and the autumn colours in this mixed species deciduous forest will give a quite splendid display making late October into November probably the best time to visit. It is, however, almost matched by May/June when the forest floor is covered with bluebells.
The bothy in holme wood
This walk almost invites you to go slowly, there seems no reason to step out quickly, no hills to climb, no boring bits to get past; just gentle, all encompassing, "pleasure to be out" sensations from all points of the compass. Today the weather was kind; mild, dry, wind free and sunny but even in rough conditions the trees protect you and, on this side of the lake at least, an enjoyable walk is always assured.
As you reach the end of the lake the path from the shore rejoins the main one and leads through a gate and out of the trees. A little further and you begin to climb and look back across an open field and out over the lake.
Climbing away from the lake, the path narrows and, hemmed in by two stone walls, eventually arrives at Hudson Place Farm but not before providing more stunning views over Loweswater and on towards Crummock between Grasmoor on the left and Melbreak on the right.
A fine walk with stunning views whatever the season - this was taken on a frosty day in December 2007
Keeping the farm house and buildings on your left, a paved road leads back towards the road that brought you here in the first place. At the bottom of a short downhill stretch however, I took an option to cross a couple of fields along a public footpath which brought me out almost exactly where the car was parked an hour and a half earlier - next to a neglected looking public phone-box. Not the classic 1930's red model of which many examples still survive here in God's own country, but a pathetic looking plastic affair more suited to the outside of a commuter rail station than a fine place like Loweswater!
Looks like that tree might topple the phone box on its side before too much longer
All in all a very nice walk indeed if your time or energy are limited or if you simply want to enjoy being out! Highly recommended.
