Buttermere

Car to lake: 0.6 miles

Round the lake: 4.5 miles

Time taken: 2 hours 25 minutes 

A classic view of Buttermere with Fleetwith Pike at its head

Its been a while since I did a "round the lake" walk but  a sunny morning, and the need to take our Labrador pup for a good walk before he drove my wife crackers, was enough to make me take the 20 minute drive to Buttermere village and park in the National Trust car park a few hundred yards to the Loweswater side of the Bridge Inn.

I decided to take the clockwise route and so, passing the aforementioned Inn on my right I headed through the farmyard at Wilkinsyke (sells delicious dairy ice cream) and headed towards the path leading to the lake. My companion strained on his leash to greet an elderly farmer, one those who wears his cap sideways, who, to my surprise waved him away and answered my comment that it was a "bonny morning" with "too many dogs!" I told him I'd only one and continued past signs telling me how many lambs had been killed by dogs and warning me that Nigel (for that is the name of our dog) could be shot! I charitably concluded that, in this busiest of Lake District beauty spots he had perhaps had recurring trouble with uncontrolled mutts. More than likely though, I thought, he's just a grumpy old so and so.

Nevertheless, I kept the dog on his lead and five minutes or so later I reached the corner of the lake and joined the lakeside path proper.

A well made path takes you through trees which, in winter at least, do not detract from the splendid views

The path now continued with the lake on our right hand side through trees. This morning it was bright, sunny and calm and the fells across the lake had a light peppering of clean white snow on their highest points. Trees, mountains, occasional clouds and even an airline vapour trail were reflected perfectly in the crystal clear water of the lake; pure perfection, enough to lift the most depressed of souls, no-one could doubt that they were in one of the worlds most beautiful spots. At one point a seat is thoughtfully positioned to allow you to take the weight off your legs and saviour the view across the lake to High Stile and Red Pike.

About 30 minutes into the walk the path narrows, the water looks deeper and rocks appear to the left. For a short while the path goes through a narrow tunnel, hacked out many years ago, one must assume, before reappearing again to continue through trees with the sparkling lake visible to the right. In a few minutes more, the scene changes again as you enter a field with a sweeping gravel beach and an open view up the lake towards Fleetwith Pike.

 Shortly afterwards, the path delivers walkers to the road which now passes close to the lake and you are obliged to follow it for half a mile or so, past the end of the lake and down a short hill to Gatesgarth Farm. Immediately after crossing a bridge over a stream, and before the road heads past a car park on the left towards Honister Pass, turn right between farmhouse and farm buildings and pick up once more the signposted lakeshore path. This leads to a broad track which passes through green fields across the end of the lake and onto another path which heads down the other side back towards Buttermere village.

This time we have open fell on the left - populated this morning only by a few hairy looking highland cattle - and the lake to our right. The clear absence of sheep meant it was safe to allow Nigel to roam free and he had a whale of a time greeting other walkers and chasing their dogs around; it looked, for the first time, that my ambition to tire him out might be achievable!

The path eventually enters a section of forest and proceeds without much deviation to the bottom of the lake where a sometimes fast flowing stream enters from the fells above. There is one point where a choice to follow a less well defined route closer to the lakeshore can be made and it is to be recommended.

Having crossed the wooden bridge into a field at the foot of the lake, fine views can be had looking back before joining a series of lanes leading back to the two Pubs (The Fish and the aforementioned Bridge) and from there picking up the road back to the car park.

A lovely gentle walk; just far enough to make you feel you've had a good bit of exercise but not at all strenuous or difficult. As a result, and because the man-made paths are so wide and well maintained, it is a very popular walk. If the weather is half decent do not expect to be alone, even in winter. 

Hayeswater

Car to lake: 1.3 miles, 1 hour from car park at Hartsop (walking slowly, with frequent stops)

Round the lake:  1.4 miles, 1 hour (including detour to cross swollen beck)

Time taken - whole walk 3 hours (could be much less if walked briskly!)

Height: 800ft  from car park to lake

Another Lake I'd not heard of before drawing up my list, Hayeswater is situated in the eastern bit of the Lake District between Patterdale and Kirkstone Pass, on the fell above Hartsop. We followed the A592 from Ullswater and turned left just before reaching Brothers Water. Following a very narrow track through Hartsop we soon arrived at the end of the road in an unpaved car park which offered plenty of parking for the cost of a voluntary donation to Patterdale School. 

A bridleway leads from the car park and is signposted to Hayeswater so navigation is not a problem! The bridleway leads past some sheep pens with a shed and, today at least, a flock of newly shorn sheep all of whom had smeared their new red marks to become a uniform pink.

The weather wasn't promising as we walked past the pink sheep and along the roughly tarred road which led towards the joining of two valleys; a drab and drizzly day left us thinking maybe it wasn't the best decision we'd made to hike out to this remote body of water. Nevertheless, we continued, head in hood, wishing we'd brought waterproof trousers.

It soon became apparent that our target was at the head of the valley on our left and that there would be a steep climb before it was reached. Past an old farm building with considerable greenery growing through it's slate roof, the road led us through a gate and up a steepish climb. A furious stream rushed past on our left and it was no surprise to learn, a little later, that construction was underway to instal a hydro electric plant!

Looking back to a rather odd looking farm building - construction tackle in the background. Shortly beyond this point, the path takes a steep turn. 

As the path climbs the view of Hayeswater Gill became more dramatic, and a series of waterfalls, at least on this miserable wet Sunday afternoon, added a bit of much needed interest.

We climbed on, up the hill with fell to our right, and a steep drop down to the beck on our left. We could now see that a path which had split from ours before the farm building, where we'd crossed the beck by way of a heavy duty steel bridge, now went in the same direction as ours but on the opposite side of the beck. It would have been a perfectly good alternative.

After some little while, the path seemed to reach the crest of a hill and passing over it we got our first view of the mighty Hayeswater. Not too impressive really, it lay in bleakness surrounded as it was by green fell on three sides and a grey sky above. Drizzle eased a little though and we were inspired to commence a clockwise circumnavigation!

There isn't much of a path, just a narrow sheep trod which, from time to time, resembles a small stream. At this point though something odd struck us; although water was rushing into the beck which drains the lake, the water level had, at some time not long ago, been a good six or eight feet higher than it is today. A margin of rocky shoreline, at times quite steep, surrounds almost all of the lake. A spot of research when we got home taught us that, until about a year ago, a dam had existed at the end of the lake and that until about 2005 it had been a store of drinking water for Penrith. No sign of the dam now though, it had been expertly removed leaving scarcely a trace - I wonder how many years will pass before the tell tale rocky shoreline is similarly vanished?

Apart from the slightly artificial look of the exiting beck, there's no sign that this was, just a year or so ago, a  man made reservoir and the site of a dam

We continued our walk along the left hand side of the lake and eventually it became possible to walk along the shore on fine gravel. As we approached the top of the lake however the rocky beach gave way to mud flats and again we were obliged to get up onto the grass and pick our way through a mixture of sieves, rough grass and moss; plenty of scope for getting wet feet, must be August. 

Two cumbrian feet, 3 August 2014, Devoke Water

Two cumbrian feet, 9 August 2015, Hayeswater

Rounding the head of Hayeswater was a tricky business if we were to avoid getting really wet feet. The ground was uneven and wet and the drizzle had transformed into proper, soaking rain - as so often at this stage of a Lake District walk (maximum distance from shelter) we wished we'd brought our waterproof trousers.

With no alternative we pressed on, eventually reaching a beck which flowed into the lake. Now flowing quite furiously, this beck was conspicuous in its lack of bridges or other obvious crossing places. We walked upstream for some way, hoping it would narrow to a point where we could jump across or widen to a point where it was shallow enough to walk across, perhaps with the help of a stepping stone or two.

In search of a crossing point

By the time I found a likely crossing point the lake had drifted into the background and my walking companion wasn't looking too happy as I jumped onto a gravel patch in the middle of the beck and, from there, onto the opposite bank. Looking back in expectation however,it became clear that I was on my own and that my fellow intrepid explorer didn't have the take off capability to join me. There then followed further walking up and down both banks until we finally found a spot that was crossable - this episode added at least twenty minutes to the walk, but we were now heading in the right direction, our feet were still relatively dry and the rain had stopped - all's well that ends well!

By the time we reached the bottom of the lake again, the weather had improved a little

The walk back to the car was uneventful - we missed the opportunity to cross the gill and walk back down the other side which might have been nice, but arrived at the car park quite satisfied with our afternoon. Another lake crossed off the list and one which neither us had visited before.

Launchy Tarn

Car to lake: 1.9 miles, 1.5 hours from Honister slate mine car park via Dalehead Tarn.

Round the lake:  0.1 miles, 3 minutes (including detour to avoid wet feet)

Time taken - whole walk (including Dalehead Tarn - see previous post): 2.5 hours

Height: 610ft net from car park to tarn (maximum height gain 1000ft)

I have to admit, until I drew up my list of Lakes and Tarns around which I determined to walk, I'd never heard of Launchy Tarn. It looked like nothing more than an accidental dab of blue ink on my ordnance survey map, clearly not one of the world's great stores of fresh water.

Like Dalehead Tarn, it can be reached either from the Little Town area of the Newlands Valley or from Honister and it was from there that I combined it with a trip to Dalehead Tarn (see previous post). My first sight of Launchy Tarn came at the same time as that of Dalehead Tarn and it really looked too small to be considered worthy of a name sitting high on a hill above its larger neighbour.

Launchy Tarn, perched on a hill above Borrowdale and looking like a wet spot rather than a tarn.

Leaving Dalehead Tarn behind, I set out along the path towards High Spie but quickly turned to my right and headed across the fell towards a fence which I'd earlier seen led straight to the tarn itself. Climbing steadily I reached the fence after ten minutes or so and then walked along it, still climbing until the sparkling waters came into view.

My earlier impression that the fence ran right alongside Launchy Tarn was confirmed; indeed, it could be said that the fence ran over the tarn at one particular point.

How small can a piece of water be and still be considered a Tarn?

I looked into the water and found it to be clear and sparkling and the bottom of the tarn to be stony - I had expected it to be peaty or maybe full of weeds. Perhaps it was this quality which entitled it to a degree of respect and a title?

The ground around the water's edge was wet and squidgy and, performing my anti clockwise circuit, I was obliged to make a detour to maintain dry feet. Nevertheless, including this detour, taking a picture or two, and having to climb the fence twice to complete my circumnavigation, it took a little over three minutes to arrive back at my starting point from where the above picture was taken.

Two views of the great Launchy Tarn from its rather soggy southern end

Having completed my task, I now set off towards Honister slate mines and my waiting car. The straight route back can be found by setting your eye on the summit of Great Gable and heading slightly to the right of it.

The ground here, however is very wet and unless great care is taken at least one foot will get a soaking before you reach the dry path down the fellside back to the summit of Honister pass. I managed however, by following my golden rule always to step on a clump of grass or heather and never on the spaces in between.

Two more stretches of water were found on the way home - not much smaller than Launchy Tarn but obviously not large enough to deserve a name or a splash of blue on the map. 

The trek back took no more than half an hour, despite the sometimes difficult terrain, and it seemed no time at all until I was looking down on the mine buildings and car park below.

Overall, the walk had been a good one and despite its unimpressive nature, I was pleased that I'd decided to make the trip to Launchy Tarn. The elevated position meant that long distance views were the norm and that, to me, always makes for an enjoyable hike. Not sure I'll bother going back, mind you, unless as part of a longer hike someday. 

The final, steep drop down to Honister Slate Mine

Dalehead Tarn

Car to lake: 1.5 miles, 1 hour, from Honister slate mine car park.

Round the lake:  0.2 miles, 6 minutes 

Time taken - whole walk (including Launchy Tarn - see next post): 2.5 hours

Height: 460ft net from car park to tarn (maximum height gain 1000ft)

My walk to Dalehead Tarn started from the Honister slate Mine car park at the top of Honister Pass. Not only is this a good place to park (at a cost of £3.50) and a good place to buy Kendal Mint Cake for sustenance but, most importantly, it is already at 1,200 feet above sea level meaning that impressive views opened up within minutes of leaving the car.

Leaving the car park, and crossing the road, I started out up a well worn and immediately quite steep track up the fell. The disadvantage of having a steep climb at the beginning of a walk soon became apparent as legs ached and lungs strained to supply them with oxygen! I've noticed before that this doesn't happen nearly as much if there's been a half mile or so of level walking before hitting a steep climb. The path follows a fence to the right before, after a little while, a stile was climbed allowing me to continue with the fence on my left.

The view ahead, some ten or fifteen minutes into the walk. Around this point, I ought to have veered of the path to the right, keeping the hilltop on my left.

While the view ahead is a little bland at this point, over to the left, with only a slight detour, I got a good view down into the valley up which I'd driven to get here, and to Buttermere and Crummock Water beyond.

The winding Honister pass road linking Buttermere and Borrowdale. The fell on the left must be like a swiss cheese having had Buttermere slate removed from its innards for over a century.

I ploughed on up the hill, reaching a number of false summits before becoming aware that the path was gradually veering left and, therefore, away from where my target Tarn was believed to be. I didn't, of course, have a map, or a compass or even serviceable batteries to put in my Garmin device and was relying on my memory of what I'd seen on "google earth" just after breakfast more than an hour before. After a brief chat with a man from the northeast about his new boots, and another with two ladies who were as unsure of their location as I was, I left the path and veered off to the right in the hope of that Dalehead Tarn would be visible just around the next corner. Two or three next corners later and all became clear.

Dalehead Tarn, now way below me, with my next target, Launchy Tarn, high on the hill behind it.

I had, quite obviously stayed too long on that convenient path and had, as a result done several hundred feet of climbing more than was strictly necessary to reach my destination. My reward however, was a pleasing overview of where Dalehead Tarn lay and a look over into Borrowdale ahead of me and, out of sight in the photo, down towards Little Town to the left.

After taking on board the view, and a few squares of Kendal Mint Cake, I started to zig zag my way down the steep and rather rocky fellside towards the tarn. In no more than a few minutes I joined a path which had come down from my right and led me, and a few other hikers, to the shore of the Tarn.

Dalehead Tarn is a relatively attractive one with some plant life growing at the margins and towards one end. To the left of the picture are the stone remains of what looks like some sheep pens from an earlier age and, from halfway along one side, flows a stream which quickly turns left behind a rocky outcrop before heading off towards the Newlands valley. It had taken a little more than an hour to get here, even via my indirect route and, in a way, I was glad I'd got slightly off track.

I settled down among the ruins on one of the few dry bits of ground to enjoy a sip of water and some more Kendal Mint Cake; the pack of Mars bars I'd brought were little use as they remained in the glove compartment of my car back at Honister.

It was a sunny interval sort of day, sometimes cool in the fresh breeze, sometimes very warm in the mid-summer sun but always pleasant with just jeans, a polo-shirt and a rucksack for protection. Why, I wondered, had I met so many people wearing jackets? One couple were sporting expensive looking windproof clothing which included hoods tied tightly over their heads. With their "earnest hiker" expressions they looked like demented members of some way-out religious cult!

The view from half way round

Refreshed by my sit in the sun, it was now time to perform the ritual of "walking around the lake" and I set off the stop watch on my i-phone and trudged off in a clockwise direction. Six minutes,and a few photographs, later I was back where I'd started from - it could have been less had I not stopped for photos and to admire the view.

Perhaps a better way to have reached Dalehead Tarn would have been from Little Town in the Newlands Valley or as part of a horeshoe hike including Hindscarth, Dalehead and High Spy. The other walkers I met near the tarn, seemed to be doing that except for the two ladies I mentioned earlier. They reappeared just as I was leaving Dale Head Tarn and headed off in the general direction of Borrowdale having lost their way exactly as I had done.

My walk had been very enjoyable however and, had there not been the lure of Launchy Tarn nearby, I'd have happily headed straight back to the car, probably no more than 45 minutes away.

Launchy Tarn beckoned however, and I veered off the path leading towards High Spy and struck out across open fell...................... see my next post on the blog!

Brothers Water

Car to lake: 0.25 miles, 5 minutes, from Cow Bridge car park on A592 near Hartsop

Round the lake:  2.25 miles, 45 minutes - but see below re route!

Time taken - whole walk: 1.25 hours


Our walk started from the Cow Bridge car park just a short distance north of the Hartsop turning off the A592 Patterdale to Kirkstone road. Amazingly, a free car park (unless I just didn't spot the ticket machine!)

 The A592 is a busy and, at times rather narrow and twisty road. Watch out for drivers, not used to such roads, driving down the middle!

From the car park, a well laid path led us over a bridge and into the trees on the western side of Brother's Water. In a little more than a few minutes the lake itself hove into sight and a stroll down to the water's edge gave us an open view over the lake and up towards Kirkstone Pass. Brother's Water, from the descent from the pass, had looked like a rather bland rectangle of water but, from ground level was quite different. Rather choppy, on this cold but sunny last day of May (it really ought to be warmer than 10 degrees centigrade), it glistened in the sunlight and, with the rich greens that surrounded it, was a  colourful and pleasing sight.

One of our smaller lakes, it seemed to offer a nice walk as opposed to a good hike, but it's none the worse for that.

It looked possible that we could walk right at the water's edge but the path continued a little higher up, among some trees and we chose that option, taking us in an anti clockwise circuit around the lake. 

Continuing through deciduous woodland, the path at first climbed gently above the lake but then descended again as, in a relatively short time, the head of the lake was reached. We considered the possibility of leaving the path at this point to trace a route along the end of the lake but this really didn't look possible without breaking our self imposed rule of not clambering over fences and through fields of livestock. If it had been, then a circumnavigation could have taken as little as half an hour but it might well have involved damp feet as the low lying land at the head of the lake seemed to involve reed beds and an un-distinct and gradual transition from lake to land! 

We continued along the path, past various pretty patches of wildflowers - wild garlic, violets and, further up the hillside, bluebells -  until reaching the farm at Hartsop Hall. We could now see that our route would take us through the farmyard and across the valley towards the road again - hopefully we wouldn't have to walk along it to return to the car, not with all those nervous looking drivers we'd encountered on driving down from Kirkstone!

The path took us through shady woodland with a variety of wild flowers on this chilly spring afternoon!

Hartsop Hall looked an interesting old farmstead with some peculiar shaped windows in one section. Not sure if they are an original  feature from centuries past or a more recent addition. "Wikipedia" reckons the Hall dates from the 16th century so maybe they are original.

Having walked through the farmyard at Hartsop Hall, past the obligatory black plastic bags of silage and the John Deere tractor, the path brought us into a campsite. Not very full for this time of year, we saw only one camper, and he was exercising a daft looking oversized poodle called Megan. Megan was busy ensuring that her owner would have to "clean up after your dog" which was one of the many instructions given to campers by means of laminated notices nailed to fence posts on the perimeter of the site. 

Just before entering the site, from a field occupied by ewes and lambs, a good view could be had looking down the lake in the general direction of Patterdale.

Looking north from close to Hartsop Hall. We arrived here by walking through the deciduous woodland to the left of the lake.

We left the campsite behind and, as we followed a paved road out towards the A592 were pleased to find ourselves led to a path which, after a few minutes, brought us to the eastern shore of the lake. Again, we were treated to a fine display of wildflowers - bluebells this time - and to some pleasant views across the lake to where we'd been just a short time before. Brother's Water really is quite a small lake and it seemed no time at all until we reached it's northern limit and the path deposited us on the edge of the road. Fortunately, there is a footpath and we were soon delivered, safe and sound, back at the car park.

Photographic tip: there are few countryside pictures that can't be improved by a red coat. 

The path above soon descends to the end of the lake......

.......... and provides good views across the water to the western shore.

Back at the car park and I'm no thinner than I was when we started. Longer walks required!

All in all, our walk around Brother's Water (named after two brothers who drowned there in the 19th century) was a pleasant thing to do en-route from Ambleside to Ullswater. Not spectacular, and certainly not a test of endurance, it was just long enough to make you feel like you'd had a bit of exercise and had enough variety to keep you interested all the way round. Well worth doing again sometime.

From the car park, a firm, well made path takes you over a small bridge and into some trees on the western side of the lake

Floutern Tarn

Car to lake: 1.75 miles from road to the east of Whins farm on the way to Bowness Knottt

Round the lake: 0.4 miles,12 - 15 minutes

Time taken - whole walk: 2.5 hours (including frequent stops)

This walk to Floutern Tarn starts just past the Whins Farm on the way towards Bowness Knott and Ennerdale Water A narrow and twisty road will have been endured if you approached from Ennerdale Bridge, rather less so if you've come from Cockermouth via Lamplugh; although Croasdale Brow has its moments.

However, once past the Whins, there is room to park on either side of the road where a signed footpath leads you between two hedges to join another path which began by the Farm itself. Fairly soon into the walk, the path leads uphill towards the right hand side of Banna Fell with the imposing front of Herdus to your right. Once out onto open fell its well worth taking a look behind you, out over the fields of the lower Ennerdale valley and to your left over Ennerdale Water to Crag Fell - one of the best views around, if you ask me.

Looking down towards the coast it was clear that the sun was shining on those who had headed to the hills. Those poor saps in St Bees endured fog for most of this Easter Monday

Ennerdale Water, as seen from the path to Floutern only ten or fifteen minutes after leaving the car

The first part of what looks like open fell has now been fenced in and another gate appears just as the climbing getting a little stiffer. Once through that gate the path has become a double wheeled track which zig zags its way up a bit of an incline. A badly spelled sign warns the walker that the path "cross's" private land and doesn't give access to Great Borne, it also implores you to keep to the path. Might be wise to obey these instructions!

Once past this section, the route settles down into a gradual uphill walk across open fell. The path isn't great and can be wet and muddy but it's pleasant enough if you watch where you are placing your feet and, stopping once or twice to catch your breath, allows a backward look at a decent enough view down into Ennerdale.

A bit over two thirds of the way there and the long drag is coming to an end. In bad weather you may well have wet feet by now.

Looking forward from the same spot and Floutern Kop lets you know there's not too much further to go

After about 45 minutes walking, the ground begins to level off and your boots begin to sink in the squishy ground beneath - a sure sign that, having climbed over a stile, a few more yards to the right will give the first view of this magnificent body of water. 

And here it is, Floutern Tarn in all its splendour. You may feel it a disappointment but, in its isolated position, it sort of feels like you've been on an expedition to get here so you might as well be impressed.

Getting down to the lakeside is a fairly easy three or four minute walk although there's always the possibility of your foot slipping into a wet hole.Once there, it took only ten or fifteen minutes to walk right round while stopping for photos and to peer into the dark peaty waters. The impression is that Floutern is not so deep and I was once young and daft enough to walk across it when frozen; not a sensible thing to do, I now realise that I'd have had to shout pretty loud for help if I'd fallen through!

Today though I had  a nice walk round it watching whispy bits of cloud hovering over the end of Great Borne - they seemed like stray clouds who should have been at St Bees!

Stray clouds added to the slightly eerie silence of this isolated place

At the far end of the tarn the land falls away very sharply and, looking from a crouching position the beck which leaves Floutern seems to shoot off into fresh air. It is, in fact, Mosedale Beck which drops into a wet and boggy valley between Hen Combe and Melbreak from where it meanders its way down into the beck which flows past Kirkstile Inn in Loweswater. The views from this precipitous end of Floutern Tarn lead your eye to the Buttermere end of Crummock Water and across to the Newlands Pass beyond. Today, with those occasional bits of cloud hovering far below it made a wonderful sight. On other days, of course, you can struggle to see far past the end of your nose but today, at least, I was lucky.

A terrific place to be on a sunny day - and even the slowest walker can be here in a little more than an hour from leaving his car

Of course, it takes rather less time to get back to the car, it being downhill, but once up at floutern Tarn it would seem silly not to extend the walk and I did so by climbing around the back of Great Borne and descending down towards Bowness Knott before returning to the car along the road. Alternatively, you could climb up onto Great Borne itself (a real stiff climb, not for sissies) before dropping down into the valley at the other side. Both of these involve some scrambling down rocky bits and should be attempted only with a degree of caution.

Whatever you do, a walk to Floutern on a nice day is highly recommended!