Round the lake: 4.5 miles
Time taken: 2 hours 25 minutes
A classic view of Buttermere with Fleetwith Pike at its head
Its been a while since I did a "round the lake" walk but a sunny morning, and the need to take our Labrador pup for a good walk before he drove my wife crackers, was enough to make me take the 20 minute drive to Buttermere village and park in the National Trust car park a few hundred yards to the Loweswater side of the Bridge Inn.
I decided to take the clockwise route and so, passing the aforementioned Inn on my right I headed through the farmyard at Wilkinsyke (sells delicious dairy ice cream) and headed towards the path leading to the lake. My companion strained on his leash to greet an elderly farmer, one those who wears his cap sideways, who, to my surprise waved him away and answered my comment that it was a "bonny morning" with "too many dogs!" I told him I'd only one and continued past signs telling me how many lambs had been killed by dogs and warning me that Nigel (for that is the name of our dog) could be shot! I charitably concluded that, in this busiest of Lake District beauty spots he had perhaps had recurring trouble with uncontrolled mutts. More than likely though, I thought, he's just a grumpy old so and so.
Nevertheless, I kept the dog on his lead and five minutes or so later I reached the corner of the lake and joined the lakeside path proper.
A well made path takes you through trees which, in winter at least, do not detract from the splendid views
The path now continued with the lake on our right hand side through trees. This morning it was bright, sunny and calm and the fells across the lake had a light peppering of clean white snow on their highest points. Trees, mountains, occasional clouds and even an airline vapour trail were reflected perfectly in the crystal clear water of the lake; pure perfection, enough to lift the most depressed of souls, no-one could doubt that they were in one of the worlds most beautiful spots. At one point a seat is thoughtfully positioned to allow you to take the weight off your legs and saviour the view across the lake to High Stile and Red Pike.
About 30 minutes into the walk the path narrows, the water looks deeper and rocks appear to the left. For a short while the path goes through a narrow tunnel, hacked out many years ago, one must assume, before reappearing again to continue through trees with the sparkling lake visible to the right. In a few minutes more, the scene changes again as you enter a field with a sweeping gravel beach and an open view up the lake towards Fleetwith Pike.
Shortly afterwards, the path delivers walkers to the road which now passes close to the lake and you are obliged to follow it for half a mile or so, past the end of the lake and down a short hill to Gatesgarth Farm. Immediately after crossing a bridge over a stream, and before the road heads past a car park on the left towards Honister Pass, turn right between farmhouse and farm buildings and pick up once more the signposted lakeshore path. This leads to a broad track which passes through green fields across the end of the lake and onto another path which heads down the other side back towards Buttermere village.
This time we have open fell on the left - populated this morning only by a few hairy looking highland cattle - and the lake to our right. The clear absence of sheep meant it was safe to allow Nigel to roam free and he had a whale of a time greeting other walkers and chasing their dogs around; it looked, for the first time, that my ambition to tire him out might be achievable!
The path eventually enters a section of forest and proceeds without much deviation to the bottom of the lake where a sometimes fast flowing stream enters from the fells above. There is one point where a choice to follow a less well defined route closer to the lakeshore can be made and it is to be recommended.
Having crossed the wooden bridge into a field at the foot of the lake, fine views can be had looking back before joining a series of lanes leading back to the two Pubs (The Fish and the aforementioned Bridge) and from there picking up the road back to the car park.
A lovely gentle walk; just far enough to make you feel you've had a good bit of exercise but not at all strenuous or difficult. As a result, and because the man-made paths are so wide and well maintained, it is a very popular walk. If the weather is half decent do not expect to be alone, even in winter.
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