Overwater

Car to lake: 110 yards from parking space at north eastern end.

Round the lake: 1.2 miles

Time taken: 10 minutes! (see below)

Overwater was never one of the lakes I looked forward to circumnavigating. I've always known of it's existence but, until today, had only seen it once; while attending a friend's wedding at the nearby eponymous hotel in 1980. I was underwhelmed by the lake then and both my wife and I were underwhelmed again today. 

Turning off the Castle Inn - Uldale road, past the Hotel entrance, we came to a small parking area where a small, straight beck leaves the lake through what appears to be a man made channel. We passed various signs warning us not to think of going fishing and a two minute walk brought us to the water's edge. The lake on which we gazed has little in common with most on my target list; it possesses few attractive features and would be better placed in the midlands or south of England than in the Lake District. It does have a view of Skiddaw in one direction but towards all other points of the compass the outlook is relatively featureless.

Perhaps the best view of Overwater on this sunny winter afternoon

We set off in an anti clockwise direction, through some trees, but quickly got to a position where there was no clear way ahead. Looking forward, it appeared that to walk around this lake, even allowing for it's relatively small size, would involve more effort than it could possibly be worth and, I'm afraid, we decided to head off elsewhere in search of an alternative!

There just appeared to be no obvious way to walk around Overwater - so we gave up!

Loweswater

Car to lake: 0.25 miles from parking space by telephone box on Mockerkin side of lake

Round the lake: 3.7 miles

Time taken: 1 hours 25 minutes 

One of the smaller lakes (as opposed to tarns) Loweswater is easy to get to and very easy to walk around - not a challenge at all, more of a stroll than a hike.

Driving from Workington or the A5086, the first available parking place is to be found just after the Grange Country House Hotel, by a telephone kiosk, with the lake and Melbreak already in view. As usual, the walk can be done either clockwise or anti clockwise with little to choose between the two. I elected to go clockwise simply to get the stretch where you have to endure traffic out of the way first.

My route took me along the road for about half a mile until the lake is but a few feet away on the right hand side. At this point it is normally possible to leave the road and follow a gravel path at the water's edge; today however, recent heavy rain had filled the lake to the point where much of the path was submerged, obliging me to rejoin the road. 

Looking up the lake towards Melbreak

The strip of land between the road and the lake is full of mature trees and shrubs and consequently the path is in the shade. Loweswater itself, being bordered to the south-west by steep fell, is also in the shade for much of the day and, in winter, seems rarely to see the sun. Today was a bit overcast but, although I was out of direct sunlight, the water and the forest at the other side of the lake were subject to intermittent shafts of light coming down through gaps in the otherwise thick cloud cover. A better photographer could have made more of it than I!

 Shafts of light illuminated the trees of Holme Wood across the lake

Less than half an hour got me to a point where the path came to an end and, whatever the height of the lake, I'd have had to rejoin the road as it climbs past a seventeenth century house, not long ago subject to an inundation of gravel after a heavy rain and consequent flood, and up a sharp incline in the general direction of The Kirkstile Inn; a place for excellent beer (Loweswater Gold is my favourite) and good, if a little expensive, food. It's almost forty years since I first stood at its bar with a pound in my hand to order three pints and, although the prices have soared, the pub itself has changed remarkably little since then.

Unless you are in need of refreshment however, there's no need to go as far as Kirkstile, as a turning to the right takes you onto a narrow road which doubles back towards the lake. About a quarter of mile down that road brings you to a small car park - which could be an alternative starting point for the walk - and a cattle grid leading to an unpaved track across open fields. This afternoon, the cattle grid had a two tone vintage Rolls Royce parked on it, occupied only by a driver wearing a peaked cap - presumably waiting for a wedding party who had gone up to the lake for a photo session.

A funny place to park, I thought.

By now, the occasional shafts of sunshine had become the norm and it was pleasantly bright and warm as I set out through the fields leading back to the lake. By the time I arrived the wedding party had got into a more modern car and were heading back to their Roller - I had expected to see a bride in traditional wedding get-up and high heels struggling to avoid the potholes!

From this end of the lake, the views are more open and, with the leaves just beginning to turn colour, splendid scenery is to be had in all directions. The wide gravel road veers off to the left towards Waterend Farm but my route remained on a firm path entering Holme Wood through a wooden gate. Due to the small car park only a quarter mile or so back, this is a very popular place for a Saturday afternoon walk and you are unlikely to be alone, but it is rarely crowded and an excellent choice for a short outing.

More open views at the foot of the lake just before entering Holme Wood

Once through the gate the walk takes on a different feel again as shade replaces sunshine and the lake can be seen only through trees and shrubs for much of the time. A five minute walk, however, brings you to a spot where the shoreline takes  a turn to the right and a shingle beach behind which stands a small stone bothy. Equipped for overnight stays, there are often signs of habitation and a couple of rope swings overhang the water. 

The main path cuts through the wood in a relatively straight line but, by hanging to the right, past the bothy,a smaller but equally good path can be followed which clings to the shoreline. Two or three weeks from now and the autumn colours in this mixed species deciduous forest will give a quite splendid display making late October into November probably the best time to visit. It is, however, almost matched by May/June when the forest floor is covered with bluebells.

The bothy in holme wood

This walk almost invites you to go slowly, there seems no reason to step out quickly, no hills to climb, no boring bits to get past; just gentle, all encompassing, "pleasure to be out" sensations from all points of the compass. Today the weather was kind; mild, dry, wind free and sunny but even in rough conditions the trees protect you and, on this side of the lake at least, an enjoyable walk is always assured.

As you reach the end of the lake the path from the shore rejoins the main one and leads through a gate and out of the trees. A little further  and you begin to climb and look back across an open field and out over the lake.

Climbing away from the lake, the path narrows and, hemmed in by two stone walls, eventually arrives at Hudson Place Farm but not before providing more stunning views over Loweswater and on towards Crummock between Grasmoor on the left and Melbreak on the right.

A fine walk with stunning views whatever the season - this was taken on a frosty day in December 2007

Keeping the farm house and buildings on your left, a paved road leads back towards the road that brought you here in the first place. At the bottom of a short downhill stretch however, I took an option to cross a couple of fields along a public footpath which brought me out almost exactly where the car was parked an hour and a half earlier - next to a neglected looking public phone-box. Not the classic 1930's red model of which many examples still survive here in God's own country, but a pathetic looking plastic affair more suited to the outside of a commuter rail station than a fine place like Loweswater!

 Looks like that tree might topple the phone box on its side before too much longer

All in all a very nice walk indeed if your time or energy are limited or if you simply want to enjoy being out! Highly recommended.

Devoke Water

Car to lake: 0.5 miles from Eskdale/Ulpha road

Round the lake: 2 miles

Time taken: 1 hours 20 minutes (including stops for photos!).

Elevation: Approximately 770 feet at start.

If Darwin's theory of evolution is true, then no West Cumbrian would surely ever leave home without his waterproof trousers. Even on the sunniest of days, some deeply embedded instinct, honed through millennia of soakings, would prevent him from the ludicrous optimism that allowed me to get in the car this afternoon equipped for nothing more than a light, intermittent drizzle.

Turning off the A595 at Gosforth I could see the clouds thickening over towards Eskdale and by the time the road over towards Ulpha levelled out on Birker Moor, it was raining. When I reached the crossroads where a left turn was signposted to Stanley Ghyll, and the unsigned road to the right led to Devoke Water, it was raining so heavily that I didn't want to leave the car. For a minute I sat and pondered but, secure in the knowledge that it could only wet me as far as the skin, and convincing myself that it had eased a little, I began my trek.

No question really, only a wimp would cancel a walk because of a few raindrops!

Once parked at the crossroads, the short walk to the edge of Devoke Water follows a fairly good, firm track with grass up the middle. Climbing only very slightly, the lake comes into view after only five or six minutes from which point the track descends again almost to the water's edge. I can't say it's a particularly attractive piece of water because it's not; the landscape in which it sits is fairly featureless fell and nothing much is visible beyond the lake itself as there is little rise in height before the land falls away again in the general direction of Ravenglass.

 First glimpse of the lake just before the road reaches it maximum height.

As you approach the lake, the reason for the hard road becomes apparent; a boathouse!

Ten or twelve minutes into the walk and the usual decision had to be made - clockwise or anti clockwise? The road seemed to make the decision for me and I followed it along the eastern shore, in a clockwise direction, as far as the boathouse. This appears to be a pretty sound structure right up to the water but, on its landward side, is a roofless, dilapidated part that looks as if it has been that way for some time. At this point the hard, relatively dry road comes to an end and you are faced with a wet patch that today resembled the bottom of a number of small streams all making their way into the lake.

 

The boathouse - presumably used by whoever owns the fishing rights. 

Being in possession of a good dry pair of boots, if not waterproof trousers, I picked my way across these raging waters and round to the south shore. The terrain then settled into a pattern; stretches of boggy, wet, grass punctuated by further streams of water emptying into the lake. Most streams were either shallow enough to be waded or narrow enough to be stepped over but one required a run and a jump which, I'm pleased to say, was completed without incident.

There was another party of walkers behind me at this point but they seemed to disappear in another direction and for the rest of the walk it was just me and a few herdwicks. Even they looked little brassed off with the day's weather!

A lone herdwick across the stream which had to be jumped!

Finally, at the extreme western end of the lake you reach a stream which actually flows out of the lake. Presumably it has to carry a quantity of water approximately equal to the sum of that carried by all the streams flowing into the lake so it was no surprise to find that it was considerably deeper and wider than any of those. Left in its natural state it may well have proved an insurmountable obstacle to any circumnavigator of Devoke Water who wasn't prepared to wade across up to his waist. Luckily, a set of very sturdy stepping stones had been laid just a few yards downstream and I was able to enter the last stage of my walk without difficulty.

By now, a very heavy shower of rain had soaked through my jeans and water had started to run down the back of my neck. It was not comfortable and I wondered if the cloudy but dry day, with bursts of warm sunshine, I had left at home, was continuing. I concluded it probably was.

By the time I reached the point where water flows out of the lake, the bad weather had worsened 

I think this was my third or fourth visit to Devoke Water over the last 30 years or so and this is typical of how my feet have looked on every occasion.

The path, if it can be called that, along the northern shore continued in similar fashion and the views across the lake varied little as I made my way back to its northeastern corner and onto the road which would lead me to the car.

As I made my way back, splashing through water, avoiding bogs (almost) and trying desperately to use my camera without getting water in it, the cloud lifted a little, the rain stopped and, for a moment I thought I might be rewarded with a little sunshine. Alas, it was a case yet again of ludicrous optimism; the glimmer of brightness spotted in the east faded, the rain came down and normal services was resumed!

A glimmer of hope, as the murk lifted a little.

The wet weather reminded me of a bit of Birker Moor trivia. 

It was but a few miles from here on a similar day in 1940 that German pilot, and escaped prisoner of war, Franz von Werra was recaptured. If the subsequent 1957 film, "The One That Got Away" is to be believed, he was so wet and cold that he was pleased to be caught. Von Werra was later transferred to a camp in Ontario, Canada but managed to escape again making it back to Germany via the USA, Mexico, Brazil, Spain and Italy. Some good shots of Grizedale Hall, where he was imprisoned, Ulpha and Crosbythwaite can be seen in the film which starred Hardy Kruger.

Escaping didn't do Von Werra much good in the long run; not much more than a year later, in October 1941, his plane crashed off the dutch coast and he was killed.(at least, according to his "wikipedia" entry)

Bleaberry Tarn

Car to lake: 1.7 miles from Buttermere village

Round the lake: 0.25 miles

Time taken: 3 hours 50 minutes (including ascent of Red Pike), Estimated 2 hours if returning from Bleaberry Tarn.

Elevation: Approximately 1,300 feet from the starting point.


I first saw Bleaberry Tarn from the summit of Red Pike in 1972 during a walk from Black Sail to Croasdale with a schoolfriend and a terrier. Equipped with only a pair of stout boots, a mars bar and a can of fizzy drink each, we completed the walk in a more or less exhausted condition in about six hours. Having had Sunday lunch before leaving home, I just made it to school the next day while my companion, who later admitted to having eaten only a light breakfast, didn't. Nevertheless, we both survived to adulthood, remain good friends, and I at least, remain a keen fell-walker.

Today's walk was shorter and unlikely to be traumatic, as it began with the sole aim of reaching Bleaberry Tarn, walking around it, and returning to the car. Forty years of experience and a degree of common sense also meant I had a rather better idea of what I was about to attempt!

     

Bleaberry Tarn as pictured by a 14 year old with a kodak instamatic in 1972! 

As it was Easter Sunday I decided to start early and beat the crowds and so I parked in Buttermere village a little after 8am and set off past the Fish Inn and along the road towards the Lake. Having reached the Lake and following the path through a small gate onto the track which leads around it, you need to make an immediate right turn up what looks almost like a staircase through the trees.

I have mixed views about man made paths in the Lake District; this one seems very artificial with its well positioned stones but, as I was to find out later, the route is so popular that a path would otherwise develop of its own accord. Such a path no doubt would be more intrusive and, given the rocky terrain, even more likely to result in twisted ankles.

The climbing starts almost immediately and is fairly relentless until long after the path emerges for the trees and begins to zig zag up the fell side. The tarn lies in a depression about two thirds of the way up onto the High Stile, Red Pike range which separates the Buttermere and Ennerdale Valleys and there isn't an easy way up - you just have to get your head down and walk. Very good for the calf muscles!

The compensation, as is often the case, comes in the form of spectacular views down in to the valley below and, later, along to Crummock Water and beyond.

Buttermere and Fleetwith Pike. Early morning clouds soon gave way to clear skies - unbelievable weather for a bank holiday!

I did meet one or two people on the way up, but my early start meant that most of the time I was alone and could walk at my own pace, stopping as appropriate to soak up those views.

Eventually, the path took a left turn over the crest of a hill and began to level out. On my right was the stream which flows out of Bleaberry Tarn and which I had crossed earlier just a few yards from where it enters the Lake. With Red Pike now clearly identifiable ahead of me to the right, and some impressive crags straight ahead and to my left, I could guess where Bleaberry Tarn was but couldn't see it. In fact it doesn't become visible at all until you are within a few yards and then it appears; on this Easter morning almost completely still and, with only two other people within sight, perfectly silent.

After gazing upon it for a few minutes I set off on the short trip around the tarn - electing to do an anti clockwise loop!

The view from half way round - it reminded me of one of those infinity pools you see advertised in holiday resorts! From this angle, you could be forgiven for thinking the Buttermere valley didn't lie between you and the fells around Newlands Pass in the background.

The circuit of Bleaberry Tarn took twelve minutes, including a stop to take pictures,(with my 'phone as I'd brought my camera but left the battery plugged in to its charger at home!) but by the time I returned to the point where the beck leaves it, there were a couple of other walkers with two Alsation dogs and two or three other groups beginning the next section up to the aptly named Red Pike.

The aim of my walk achieved, I sat down to enjoy a drink and a snack and pondered over whether to continue up to the top. As I'd completed two thirds of the climb, and remembering the views from the top, there was little doubt and so I began the climb.

For the next hour or so the climbing was relentless and, not having been out hiking for a little while I stopped often. In fact I stopped far too often. About half way, there is a grassy bit which allows you to veer off to the right and to enjoy a great view out over Crummock Water and I took this detour and sat down to gaze on the sunny vista below.

Crummock Water with Melbreak on the left and Grasmoor on the right.

Returning to my task, I continued up the last section which, by now, was getting rather busy. Overtaken by a skeleton of a woman in shorts I felt rather unfit and slow, half expecting to suffer the embarrassment of some young hiker offering me assistance as I struggled to make progress up the badly eroded path. The final section to the summit of Red Pike is almost a scramble and not for the feeble!

I made it however and joined quite a crowd milling around the pile of stones which offered only a little shelter from a biting wind. A short walk beyond the stones gives a view of Ennerdale Water, equal to that of Crummock a little earlier, making a total of five major lakes visible from within a few yards the same spot. (Ennerdale Water, Loweswater, Crummock Water, Buttermere and, in the far distance, Derwentwater).

 If you've not been here before, its a good idea to add a walk southeast to the next summit, High Stile. While the views aren't any better, they are different and the rocky landscape quite striking. On the opposite side of the Ennerdale valley, Pillar and Great Gable are not far away and alternative, dramatic, views down into Buttermere are also there for the taking.

The whole area, being over 2,500 feet above sea level, is quiet wonderful and allows you to see pretty much all of the central fells.

Ennerdale Water from the summit of Red Pike

By the time I began the descent back to Beaberry Tarn there was a steady stream of walkers heading in my direction and a crowd seemed to have assembled at the tarn itself. 

Bleaberry Tarn from the Red Pike Path

Some walks are diminished if you are obliged to return by the same route but his isn't one of them. The landscape in all directions is so good that the opportunity to view it from a different perspective, and even with the sun higher or lower in the sky, is a bonus to be appreciated.

By the time I was on the last section, back on that man made "staircase", I was overtaken by, and then overtook, the cyclists I'd met on the top. I saw at least one go over the handlebars (well, what I actually saw were his feet in the air where his head should have been) and I had to admire their spirit of adventure!

An intrepid cyclist making his way through the steady stream of walkers by now heading up Red Pike

 Buttermere

Eventually, I arrived back at my car about four hours after leaving it. A fine walk had been enjoyed in bright spring sunshine and Easter sunday lunch beckoned!

Rydal Water and Grasmere

Car to lake: 0.1 miles (White Moss car park to Rydal Water)

Round the lake: Rydal Water  2.5 miles, Grasmere 2.75 miles, Together (our route) 6.25 miles

Time taken - whole walk: 3hrs 45 mins (including frequent stops)

"We wandered lonely with the crowds

that swarmed o'er dale and hill.

Quite unlike the Wordsworths,

old Dorothy and Will"

Rydal Water and Grasmere, lie in the heart of tourist Lakeland, in the area forever associated with the late poet laureate,13 miles from Keswick and 8 from Windermere. It was a bright winter Saturday but, we thought, it's January, the place won't be too busy. As we drove south from Dunmail Raise however, it became clear that finding somewhere to park wouldn't be easy and we were right; the lack of spaces forced us to fork out a fiver for four hours of parking at the White Moss car park which lies mid way between the two lakes.

White Moss car park - including waterfall

Across from the car park are a number of walks through trees and along a river bank which can lead you to the shore of either lake in just a few minutes. We chose however to walk a hundred yards or so along the roadside towards Rydal before turning left and following a path up a steep climb to join a higher level route above Rydal Water; thus gaining some decent views over the lake to the fells on the other side.

It was a pleasant walk along a good enough path, sometimes among trees and sometimes in the open. At one point there were a number of seats with elderly walkers sitting on them enjoying the view - given the gentle terrain and the number of people around, we already knew this wasn't going to be an intrepid expedition!

Rydal Water looking over the road from the first half mile or so of our walk

After some time the path led us towards the back of a very old looking house with rather well kept gardens. A sign, referring to a teashop which was closed, revealed this to be Rydal Mount, the home of Wordsworth from 1813 until his death in 1850. It was here that he wrote many of his best works including "Daffodils". Fat chance he'd have of walking "lonely as a cloud" these days - ironic, really, that writing of his solitary walk has played a part in making it all but impossible most days of the year.

Rydal Mount

Despite that, our walk was most enjoyable and we meandered merrily down the hill towards the main road, detouring slightly to take a look at Rydal Hall; a fine looking victorian mansion with formal gardens and a stone "grotto" from which you can view a rather impressive, if small, waterfall. After our recent rains, the beck was in full flow, and the waterfall was worth the detour.

Not Niagara, but a nice enough sight on a sunny day.

Crossing the main road, and walking back towards Grasmere for a few yards, we joined another track which led to the eastern end of Rydal Water and round to the opposite side of the lake. It is one of the county's smaller lakes but, nestled among equally diminutive hills, it sits in perfect scale to its surroundings and is a pleasing rather than impressive sight.

Our walk took us along the lake shore for a little while before climbing up behind a stone wall and to a point where we had a choice; turn right and return to White Moss, thus completing the circuit of the lake, or continue to the crest of a hill where we'd look over Grasmere towards Dunmail Raise. It was still early in the afternoon, the sun was shining and we had really not walked far, so we chose the latter.

Rydal Water, looking across to the fell along which we'd walked earlier

The path now took us along Loughrigg, high enough above Grasmere to give a fine view over the lake, Grasmere village and over to Dunmail Raise with the "Lion and the Lamb" rocky outcrop on the left. When I was young, these rocks were said to resemble a lion and lamb from one side and an old woman playing a  grand piano from the other! A certain amount of imagination is required to see either.

We then decided to follow this path along the fellside to where it enters some trees and eventually joins the road which leads to Grasmere village. An alternative would have been to drop down to the lake and follow the shoreline path; this doesn't go all the way along to Grasmere village, but obliges the walker to leave the shore and walk up to the same road about three quarters of a mile outside the village.

Grasmere from above

The walk along the road was pleasant enough, late on this January afternoon, but will not be so pleasant on a summer day when it will undoubtedly be busy with traffic - on foot and by car. We continued into Grasmere village, and treated ourselves to a hot chocolate before following the main road back to our car at White Moss. There is a footpath for most of the way (just under a mile and a half) but you do need to walk through the woods where the road turns away from the lake, as you approach the White Moss area and car park.

Winter sun on Grasmere during the latter part of our walk

All in all, a good, if unadventurous, walk through gentle and beautiful scenery. We walked slowly and stopped often; an hour could be cut from our time, I'm sure. No challenges on this walk greater than finding somewhere to have a pee! 

If I do it again, it will be very early one morning in June before the majority of visitors have woken up. Only then, I feel, will the landscapes that inspired Wordsworth be properly appreciated.